The designer unveiled her AW23 collection in the headline spot at Pitti Uomo in Florence, ahead of Milan fashion week. She mixed her distinctly London style with Florentine panache. The cast featured a mix of local heroes, including calcio storico players, and friends of the brand from home. The collection was dedicated to the Florentine club scene and its music from the 70s to today. Key pieces included Western fringed coats, oversized shearling jackets and the latest Nike x Martine Rose collaboration with a print inspired by 1990s goalkeeper jerseys.
This season marked the first menswear outing for new creative director Marco De Vincenzo having made his womenswear debut in September 2022. Etro’s heritage is textiles and De Vincenzo tapped firmly into that for this collection. The house’s fabric warehouse was transported to a vast industrial space to make the show’s set. Bolts of fabric were stacked and samples of hundreds of designs hung from racks. The collection was a hit. Noteworthy pieces included a tapestry collarless parka and tactile fleecy hoodie and shorts co-ord, with floral embroidery, that made winter shorts look cosy.