Let me take a guess: You want to grow your hair out, but it’s taking too long? Or maybe you have thin hair or fine hair and want it to look fuller and thicker? Or maybe all of the above are true for you (same—let’s be friends). You’ve tried all the hair supplements and hair-growth oils to no avail, but before you admit defeat, you google one more thing: hair extensions. This search sent you down an endless path of all the different types of extensions and methods, and now you’re feeling totally overwhelmed.
Nope, I’m not stalking your Google search history—I’ve just been in your position before, and you know what I’ve learned from all that? The fastest way to get longer, thicker but still natural-looking hair is with hand-tied extensions. Because hand-tied extensions aren’t exactly self-explanatory, I’ll give you all the answers to the questions I know you’re wondering (remember, I’ve been there too), so keep reading.
First, a word about the name, which can be slightly misleading, according to extension specialist Anna Gavin. “Hand-tied” refers to the type of weft being installed, which Gavin describes as a very thin, discreet weft that’s typically stacked with other hand-tied wefts and installed with a beaded-row method, but the stylist can also use machine wefts instead for denser hair. Eyes glaze over with confusion? I gotchu—just keep reading.
Let’s jump into the installation process to clarify things. For hand-tied extensions, your stylist will start by applying tiny, silicone-lined copper beads to tiny sections of your hair, one next to the other. Then they’ll clip the wefts on top and sew the extensions onto the beads.
Gavin explains that wefted methods are usually installed in horseshoe or U-shaped rows across the back of head, but smaller rows can also be used to fill in finer areas or wherever blending is needed. “Usually, I install multiple different colors of wefts or custom-color wefts to be a perfect blend and match for my clients,” Gavin says. “The more colors used, the more seamless the blend will be with natural hair.”
Curious how hand-tied extensions compare to other types of extensions? Here are the main upsides and downsides to hand-tied extensions:
“Beaded-weft extensions are great solutions for clients looking to add significant amounts of length or volume, as they add a lot of hair with minimal contact points on the head, compared to individual extension bonded methods,” Gavin says. And hand-tied extensions are completely customizable too. The stylist can order custom textures to match a client’s wave or curl pattern and use different weft densities or stack multiple wefts to be the best fit.
Because you’ll want to use your own hair to cover the seams at your roots, wefted extensions aren’t ideal for an installation very high up on the head. However, hand-tied extensions are pretty versatile. Gavin says the extensionist can combine wefts with smaller, individual extensions (like keratin bonds, I-tip, or tape extensions) and place the smaller extensions toward the top of the head or near the hairline, no prob.
Beaded weft methods are connected to your natural hair, so naturally, they’ll grow out as your hair grows out. Gavin estimates every six to eight weeks you should have your hand-tied extensions removed and reinstalled aka moved up. The good news is you can reuse the hair as long as it’s still in good condition.
Speaking of good condition, how often you need to replace your wefts depends greatly on how you maintain them (for example, brushing carefully or using good-quality styling products). But, ya know, the quality of the hair makes a big difference too. “There are many different levels of quality of hair extension, and that will greatly influence how frequently you’re replacing your hair,” Gavin says.
If you didn’t cheap out and you’re doing all the right things, you could easily get six to nine months out of your wefts. Gavin points out that because they only shed very minimally, you could have your wefts much longer than that—just keep in mind your extensions aren’t growing any longer, and they’ll need regular trims to stay looking their best.
“Because it is such a custom service based on many different factors, there isn’t a blanket answer or baseline quote,” Gavin says, adding that everything from your current natural hair length, color, and density, your desired goal length and overall look, the brand and type of weft being used, the weft length and colors, and stylist could contribute to the price.
“Extensions are very much a luxury service and an investment, initially, because you are paying for your hair itself as well as installation and blending,” Gavin says. I, personally, have asked around, and all I’ll say is don’t be as shocked if you’re told a total price in the four-digit range. Plus tip. Yeah, not cheap.
Actually, yes. Look, I’ve watched a good amount of reality TV on Hulu and Netflix, and one of my biggest hesitations about hair extensions is how obvious they are when you wear your hair in a ponytail, bun, or really any hairstyle other than straight down. But Gavin says hand-tied extensions are great for someone who likes the versatility of wearing their hair in different styles because they tend to be much easier to hide when pulling your hair up high on the head.
Although beaded weft methods are a favorite go-to of Gavin’s, they’re not for everyone, and your stylist can let you know if hand-tied extensions are the right type to get you the results you want. And speaking of stylist, you’ll want to make sure the person you’re seeing is not only certified but also experienced. Because ultimately, spending $$ on hair extensions is only worth it if the service is done correctly and doesn’t need to be redone—well, at least until it’s time to move ’em up.