For Acne Studios’ Spring/Summer 2022 menswear collection, creative director Jonny Johansson aimed to revive the spirit of the 70s, emphasizing the ideas of counterculture, community and renewed faith. Focusing on feeling, the collection deconstructs the formality of various men’s uniforms, juxtaposing them with elements from the disco age where everything seemed possible.
The collection dances with the freedom that emerged from disco, citing colorful exhibitions of how garments and accessories can pair with one another. Johansson invokes this sense of blissful nostalgia and optimism through the elongated lines, relaxed tailoring and decorative patterns that characterize the collection.
“This is a very personal collection for me, drawing on my subconscious memories of counterculture, especially in music,” said Johansson. “I like the contrast between the hard authority of the uniform, and the softness of those who seek another way to live.”
Standout looks include a dark mustard green leather utilitarian jacket, softened by its pairing with a multicolored striped shirt, mid-thigh length brown shorts, a reptilian beret and thigh high black boots. A powder blue oversized blazer paired with matching high-waisted shorts, black thigh high boots and an extra long knit scarf fuses the elements of structured tailoring and playful femininity.
Additionally, tunics are incorporated to elongate the silhouette. Garments like a destroyed cotton jersey with raw edges and holes, or a viscose jersey tunic printed with images by artist Rabin Huissen achieve this goal. Invoking the 70s would be remiss without a flamboyant cadence. As such playful patchwork detailing, bell bottoms, ruffled shoulders, snake print and flower quilting are utilized throughout the eclectic looks.
“I love the juxtaposition between hard uniforms and pieces that are softer or more feminine,” continued Johansson. “I have such respect for traditional menswear, but I always think there’s something about it that needs to be questioned and changed. In this collection, it’s about questioning the power of this clothing, subverting it, and contrasting it with pieces that are super soft and fluid, elaborate and patterned. It’s a way of dressing that’s long been part of counterculture, and it is something that’s still relevant today.”
Further emphasizing the notion of freedom and fluidity, a gambit of accessories such as futuristic eyewear, pearl necklaces and ear cuffs, fertility symbol necklaces and metal peace signs compliment the assortment of counterculture-inspired ensembles.
Expect to see the men’s SS22 collection in the coming months in Acne Studios stores and on the brand’s website.
In related news, check out Acne Studios’ recent print collaboration with Grant Levy-Lucero.